Crafting with Andie: The Singer Buttonholer Attachment

I've had this Singer Buttonholer attachment for years, but have never used it until this past weekend. Up until now, I had always assumed that my fancy modern computerized machine made the best buttonholes, so why should I use this aged contraption which probably makes a racket when used?

I was using my adorable Singer 15-91 to sew the blouse because I know that a straight-stitch machine is the ideal choice for a collared shirt - especially when top-stitching is required. The width of the foot is perfect for making nice straight top stitching along the edges of the collar, button band, and other areas.

The only part the Singer 15-91 didn't do was finishing the seams - my serger handled that part. I know I theoretically could have done all flat-felled seams, but that would have required additional thought on my part since the pattern I was using - Cashmerette Harrison shirt - was designed for regular seams and not flat-felled. Also, I had already cut out the pattern before choosing the machine to stitch it, so I was already committed to serging regular seams to finish the insides.

After completing everything except the buttonholes I happened to notice the buttonholer box sitting alone on a shelf between some random trim and an old belt. The case looked a bit dusty as it hadn't moved from its spot since I placed it there several years ago.

I popped open the box and looked inside. The box contained all the necessary parts and --most important-- the official instruction booklet. I thumbed through the little booklet while pondering whether I should start winding red thread on the bobbin of one of my modern machines. I eyed the attachment and felt sorry that it had never been used (at least by me).

I popped open the base of the attachment. It had one of the larger buttonhole cams installed, which popped out easily when I pulled on it.

Above shows the original buttonhole template installed in the attachment. The template is for a 1 1/16" size buttonhole, which is much too large for the 1/2" shirt buttons I was planning to use.

The inner gear walks around the shape of the inserted template. The white knob on top of the attachment rotates the gear, which in turn moves the grippy foot part of the attachment and the fabric. A rather genius idea for making a straight stitch machine create a zig zag stitch.

The inside of the template has a raised line which shows the size of the cut buttonhole, and the line is also on the outside of the template so you can see what size is installed. Getting the template into the buttonholer takes a bit of fiddling - the little gear has to line up with the teeth of the template and since the whole metal bottom can move back and forth, it can sometimes get fiddly. I'm sure with practice it will be easier for me.

Once the template is installed, the bottom cover snaps back in place.

Remove the standard sewing foot, then install the feed dog cover.

Before going on, turn the handwheel to move the needle down and up to be sure that the feed dog cover's opening is properly centered. That motion also can help you pull the bobbin thread up through the cover plate if you haven't already pulled it through.

The attachment goes onto the needle bar in place of the regular foot. It has a little bar with a forked end that sticks out in front which has to grab onto the screw that holds the needle in place. It won't work unless the fork is in position - that's what drives the little gear.

Buttonholer Attachment ready for action!

Birds' eye view of buttonholer in place. The white knob with the red "S" on it will rotate as the needle moves up and down. The rotation of that knob moves the gears along the path of the template. The grippy foot wiggles the fabric in the zig zag shape following the template's path to form the buttonhole shape. (truly genius!)

Side view of attachment. The numbers indicate width of the zig zag. I tested various widths to determine which width looks best for the garment in question. Always test different settings before making your first buttonhole on the official garment. Depending upon button size and thickness, buttonhole length and width can vary. Choose what looks nicest to you for the final result.

First test stitch. This is one time around template and setting =2 for zig zag width.

Buttonholer attachment starting stitching. For the test buttonholes I used ballpoint pen to mark buttonhole location and a scrap of white fabric so the red strongly contrasted. I found that placing the line close to the center marking on the attachment foot and needle starting point at end of marking. After running a few buttonholes, you will catch onto where the bottom of the buttonhole is on the template so you can easily match up the markings with where the stitching starts on the template.

Rounding the top or far corner of the buttonhole first trip around.

Test button holes. Left is one time around. Right is twice around. Both are same template and easily fit the selected button. I prefer twice around for stitch density. I don't think we need to go around a third time, so will consider twice around perfect for my shirt.

Oh, so THAT is what a buttonhole looks like when it's trying to stitch but you lose tension because the top thread spool runs out of thread... Thankfully, I already purchased more red thread because I had noticed that my thread was running low.

Numbers indicate the width settings ("4" and "2"). I prefer the width "2" setting for my blouse. "4" may be good for thicker material, but that isn't what I'm working with for this project.

This is the back side of the fabric. Always double-check settings on both front and back. Buttonholes on button down shirts show both front and back of buttonholes on the buttonholes that are left unbuttoned.

Opening buttonhole using the buttonhole chisel. I prefer how it opens buttonholes over using my seam ripper because it tends to create a cleaner opening. I only did it over the machine because of better lighting for the photo. Normally I'd do it on my ironing board, but other things were occupying the ironing board, so we do what we have to do.

Stitching the buttonhole. Notice that I'm holding the bobbin and needle threads so that they will wind up stitched under the zig zag. The foot will wiggle the garment back and forth to create the buttonhole. It's fun to watch. Since the zig zag is so small, it works out fine for creating buttonholes using a straight stitch machine by wiggling the fabric to create the zig zags. It's the tension between needle and bobbin that work out so well which makes this buttonhole superior to even top of the line electronic Sewing Machines.